Anything you can imagine.
Headset top cap torque.
Do up the headset top cap until it is just tight at this point you should be unable to turn your stem spacers.
Slide your headset spacers and handlebar stem back onto the steerer tube and put the top cap and bolt back on top of the stem and begin to preload the headset by tightening the preload bolt.
Align your handlebar stem and apply the appropriate torque rating to the steerer tube clamp bolts.
Then tighten stem again.
You want the minimum torque to reduce play in the headset.
Depending on how loose your headset bearing feels you can make adjustments to the bearing tension with the 5mm allen bolt located in the top cap.
It is non load bearing.
Do not overtighten it.
Make sure it still turns freely.
Once the stem is tightened in place is is purely cosmetic and covers the top of the steerer.
A torque wrench is a good idea at this point.
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The edc cap kit includes the worlds lightest headset top cap 4 2g and an edc steerer plug with drain hole which keeps crud out of your steerer.
Adding tension to the bolt will pull the threaded star nut which is found wedged inside the steerer tube upwards moving the fork crown race bearing more tightly into the lower headset cup.
The edc steerer plug is required for edc tool storage and is compatible with most aluminum tapered steerer.
On a custom bicycle headset cap for any type of bike.
You will need to loosen stem then tighten this top cap slightly quarter turn or so.
Too tight can damage bearings.
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Same is true for the end cap on a shimano hollowtech ii crankset.
As others have said the top cap is pre load only.